„Neue Slowakei Kletterführer!“ „DEMANOVSKA DOLINA“ – tolles Sportklettergebiet in der Slowakei, in unseren Breiten nahezu unbekannt; zudem ein sehr schön gemachter Kletterführer – abseits aller modernen Auswüchse – meines Partners Vlado Linek. Exklusivvertrieb in Österreich! Kaufpflicht!

 

Demänovská dolina with many rocks is one of the top Slovak climbing destination. It is located in National Park Nízke Tatry close to the town of Liptovský Mikuláš. Limestone towers and faces are favorite destination not only for local climbers but also for those from the wider area and even foreign climbers find their way there. Free parking is not allowed in all the valley except tolerated lot below Machnaté. All climbing areas are in higher level of nature protection so keep agreed exceptions and behave responsibly on the rocks. This guidebook contains 320 pages with detailed maps and photos of the 5 crags: Machnaté, Siná, Repiská, Ostredok and Ertoid with the total of 482 routes. In the last couple of years, a large number of safe routes was rebolted and added in all areas in the valley with new permanent stainless-steel bolts and anchors. The most extensive and the most popular area is Machnaté with 21 sectors and 207 mostly sport routes. Most of them are of lower and middle difficulty. The area forms an extensive massif up to 35 m high with many towers and faces. The history of the area goes back to the middle of the last century. The second largest crag is mythical Siná. It is a long rocky massif faced to S with 9 sectors and 137 routes. There are mostly hard routes and in some easier ones even good climbers will fight. Climbing here is very specific and grades are informative. You can find here the hardest route in Demänovská Valley. Repiská is a brand new area. The main part is a big vault. There are 64 routes and projects mostly in higher grades. Ostredok is a new area too with 38 routes. The quality of the rock and the beauty of the routes are really outstanding. The last area is new and old Ertoid with 36 routes. Except for a few sport routes, there are lines for new climbing discipline drytooling also in the big overhangs. Be careful and have fun on the rocks.

 

Preis: 28 Euro
Erhältlich unter thomas.behm@aon.at

„MALE KARPATY“ – tolles Sportklettergebiet in der Slowakei, unweit von Wien und Bratislava! in unseren Breiten nahezu unbekannt; zudem ein sehr schön gemachter Kletterführer – abseits aller modernen Auswüchse – meines Partners Vlado Linek. Exklusivvertrieb in Österreich! Kaufpflicht!

 

On 288 pages of this guidebook one can discover iconic areas of Bratislava climbers, home areas of Trnava and almost forgotten climbing destinations. The book is full of schemes and photographs. Guidebook contains 12 different climbing areas and describes almost 600 rebolted routes, mostly equipped with new stainless bolts. The stone vary from granite at Platňa, through different types of limestone at Technické sklo, Pajštún, Medené hámre, Bezka, Havranica a Skaly nad Vyvieračkou, hard quartzite at Malé hradisko, Medvedia skala and Čertove zuby and finally fine grit conglomerate at Zlepence and Veľká pec. The climbing areas described in this guidebook are located across all length of the Little Carpatians from Bratislava to Prašník (Piešťany), with small detour to Borinka. The largest area described in this guidebook is Medené hámre with 198 routes and projects. You can find there some 2-pitches long route, up to 60 m high and many easier and harder routes from grade 3 to 10. Next big area is Pajštún, offering 111 climbs up to 25 meters high and ranging in difficulty from grade 3 to 10 -. Technické sklo is interesting urban climbing destination offering almost 30 climbs which are mostly in lower grades of difficulty and up to 30 meters in length.  Skaly nad Vyvieračkou is definitely prime destination; offering 71 climbs up to 30 meters long, legendary Dzedo 9+ included. There are 40 climbs at magnificent white limestone of Havranica, some of them are for traditional climbers. And finally at Veľká pec is located very difficult climb Anacunda 10. In remaining areas there are 15 to 25 climbs in lower to moderate difficulty. Be careful and have fun on the rocks.

 

Preis: 28 Euro
Erhältlich unter thomas.behm@aon.at

Buch-Neuerscheinung am 22. März 2022:

Peter Pesendorfer: Ein Steirerherz für die Berge. Spannende Abenteuer und humorvolle Geschichten eines Alpinisten

 

Ein außergewöhnliches Buch eines außergewöhnlichen Allround-Alpinisten, der eine besondere Beziehung zu seinen steirischen Heimatbergen hat, sich aber auch vom mediterranen Flair der Berge Dalmatiens magisch angezogen fühlt. Einfühlsame Texte und herausragende Fotos ermöglichen es dem Leser, die spannenden Abenteuer am Berg, in der Wand, am Rad und auf Tourenschiern, hautnah selbst mitzuerleben. All dies beschreibt der Autor mit Humor und einem Schuss Selbstironie, wobei sich bei so mancher heiteren Geschichte, der eine oder andere Leser vielleicht sogar selbst wiederfindet. Ergänzt werden viele Geschichten durch einen ausführlichen Infoteil mit wertvollen Hinweisen und Fakten, welche für eine Wiederholung einzelner hier beschriebener Kletter-, Schi- oder Radtouren sehr hilfreich sind.

Der sympathische Autor geht stets mit einem Lächeln und voller Freude in die Berge. Wie hoch, wie schwer oder wie schnell, spielt dabei nie eine Rolle. Denn worum es ihm beim Bergsteigen geht, ist der „gewonnene Tag“. Diesen Zugang möchte er auch den Lesern dieses Buches vermitteln, ganz im Sinne eines bekannten Zitates von Alex Lowe: „Der beste Bergsteiger ist derjenige, welcher den meisten Spaß hat“.

Der studierte Montanist und Familienvater lebt in Kindberg im Mürztal. Seit seiner Schulzeit ist er in den Bergen der Welt unterwegs – neben seinem Fulltimejob in der obersteirischen Stahl industrie und zu jeder Jahreszeit. Er ist das, was man als einen klassischen „Berg-Allrounder“ bezeichnen würde: Mountainbiker, Rennradfahrer, Schitourengeher, Steilrinnenfahrer, Eiskletterer, Felskletterer und natürlich auch Wanderer. Eine Schibefahrung der Pallavicinirinne am Großglockner steht ebenso in seinem Tourenbuch, wie die eine oder andere alpine Sportkletterroute im 9. Schwierigkeitsgrad und Klettergartenrouten bis 10-. Die legendäre Blechmauernverschneidung auf der Rax kletterte er seilfrei im Alleingang. Als größten Erfolg bezeichnet er aber die Tatsache, dass er seine alpinen Jugendsünden überlebt hat. Seine Lust, immer wieder Neues zu entdecken, machte ihn zu einem der erfahrensten Erschließer Ostösterreichs in den letzten 25 Jahren. 1996 eröffnete er mit der Route Made in Styria an der Stangenwand im Hochschwab seine erste lange Kletterroute. Im Herbst 2021, ein Vierteljahrhundert später, gelang ihm mit der Route Terra Incognita im kroatischen Biokovogebirge seine bislang letzte lange Neutour. Dazwischen lagen viele andere. Und es werden wohl noch weitere folgen!

 

Preis: 35 Euro
Erhältlich unter schall-verlag.at oder unter thomas.behm@aon.at

Kletterführer Gesäuse – Klettern in den Ennstaler Alpen. Das Gesäuse bietet eine unglaubliche Routenvielfalt von 1.000 Mehrseillängenrouten in alpinem Gelände. Im Kletterführer Gesäuse sind all diese über 1.000 Routen vorgestellt.

 

Preis: 55 Euro
Erhältlich unter xeis-auslese.at oder unter thomas.behm@aon.at

„DREVENIK“ – weiteres Sportklettergebiet in der Slowakei, in unseren Breiten nahezu unbekannt; zudem ein sehr schön gemachter Kletterführer – abseits aller modernen Auswüchse – meines Partners Vlado Linek. Exklusivvertrieb in Österreich! Kaufpflicht!

 

Preis: 27 Euro
Erhältlich unter thomas.behm@aon.at

 

There are 3 areas in Drevenik, Raj, Cervene, previsy Peklo.

Travertine area Raj is one of the three climbing areas in Dreveník. The best approach is from the village of Hodkovce. There are 186 routes in 22 sectors. Some routes are not included in this guide, because they are not bolted or the lines are still not clear. The walls are from 8 to 25 m high. The most striking tower is Marta with 36 routes. In Raj routes are mostly graded from 4 to 7 UIAA. The hardest routes in Raj are SPOLOČNÉ ÁNO 8+ in sector Mesačné veže and DLHÉ LAKTE 8+ in Hodkovské veže. Most of them are sport routes,but you can find in Raj some mixed and traditional routes too, where it it necessary to place your own protection. The most prolific creators of new routes where Milan Hutlák, Jozef Tindira, Peter Haľko and Peter Slivka. Completely rebolting of Dreveník did climbers under guidance of area ranger Peter Slivka in 2012 – 2019. Travertine area Červené previsy is one of the three climbing areas in Dreveník. Červené previsy is located above the village Žehra, but the best approach is from from the village of Hodkovce. There are 20 routes in Červené previsy up to 20 m high. The first line via significat crack in the left part of the wall names STARÁ ŠPÁRA 7-, was probably climbed in 1973 by Miloš Kubík. For next many years this area was abandoned and finally in 1987 Karol Nickler started to make hard lines in overhanging slabs. He is the author of the hardest route in Dreveník POĽUDŇAJŠÍ BLESK graded 10-, that was RP climbed for the first time in 1993 by Dušan Beránek. Prolific creator of the new lines was Peter Haľko. He did 7 new routes. The couple Ivan Kos and Peter Slivka in 2018 completely rebolted this area. Travertine area Peklo is one of the three climbing areas in Dreveník. The best approach is from Spišský Castle or from the village of Hodkovce. There are 91 routes in 7 sectors from 15 to 28 m high. All routes in Peklo are sport in grades from 8 to 9. The hardest lines are NAVIAŽTE SA, PROSÍM 9, BONJOUR FRANCE 9, HAZARDNÁ HRA 9-, SVITANIE 9-, BALET HVIEZD 9-, PREŠOVSKÝ SMER 9-, INDIÁN 8+/9-, TEPŠA 8+ and SPOLOČNÁ LÁSKA 8+. After climbing, open project DRBOŠ, probably graded 10+, will be the hardest route in Dreveník. The most prolific and significant authors are Peter Haľko, Sveťo Poláček, Peter Slivka, Jožo Tindira, Ľubo Kuderjavý, Jano Lietava, Miroslav Štec or Alexander Palásthy.

„KALAMARKA“ – tolles Sportklettergebiet in der Slowakei, in unseren Breiten nahezu unbekannt; zudem ein sehr schön gemachter  Kletterführer – abseits aller modernen Auswüchse – meines Partners Vlado Linek. Exklusivvertrieb in Österreich! Kaufpflicht!  

 

Preis: 28 Euro
Erhältlich unter thomas.behm@aon.at

 

Kalamárka, with its amazing andesite rock, is one of the iconic climbing areas in Slovakia located above the town of Detva. It’s a popular destination for climbers from Slovakia, Hungary, Poland and Czechia. From spring to fall, and especially on weekends, the parking area by the gamekeeper’s lodge is packed with cars. But don’t worry, there’s room for everyone. This guidebook contains 352 pages with detailed maps and photos of the 5 crags: Horné Skaly, Dolné Skaly, Južné Skaly, Boriakove Skaly and Melichova Skala, with the total of 649 routes. In the last couple of years, a large number of safe routes was added at Horné Skaly and Dolné Skaly, all with new permanent stainless-steel bolts and anchors. However, there are still many older routes for trad climbers who like to be challenged. New crags like Južné Skaly, the magical Boriakove Skaly and finally also Melichova Skala were put on the map.

The most extensive one is Horné Skaly with 24 sectors and 320 trad, mix and sport routes. Most of them are of lower difficulty up to grade 5+, but considering the great number of routes, more accomplished climbers will also have a field day. The climbing is mostly pumpy and even grade 5 routes can get gnarly. The second largest crag is Dolné Skaly with 13 sectors and 211 routes. It has both easy and hard routes and it’s also home to the hardest line at Kalamárka – SELECKÝ graded 10-, which has only two free ascent from 2011 by Martin Medviď and from 2012 by Jozef Nosáľ.  The other crags are much smaller. Južné Skaly has 4 sectors and 52 routes of lower to medium difficulty and up to 14 meters high.

If you don’t like crowds, head to Boriakove Skaly. Many get discouraged by the 25-minute walk, but the peace, coupled with great climbing, is well worth it. Its 4 sectors offer 46 routes of medium to high difficulty that are up to 25 meters high. The smallest, and also the latest crag made accessible to climbers, is Melichova Skala with a rich history and 4 sectors with 20 routes.

Be careful and have fun on the rocks.

Vlado