„DREVENIK“ – weiteres Sportklettergebiet in der Slowakei, in unseren Breiten nahezu unbekannt; zudem ein sehr schön gemachter Kletterführer – abseits aller modernen Auswüchse – meines Partners Vlado Linek. Exklusivvertrieb in Österreich! Kaufpflicht!

 

Preis: 27 Euro
Erhältlich unter thomas.behm@aon.at

 

There are 3 areas in Drevenik, Raj, Cervene, previsy Peklo.

Travertine area Raj is one of the three climbing areas in Dreveník. The best approach is from the village of Hodkovce. There are 186 routes in 22 sectors. Some routes are not included in this guide, because they are not bolted or the lines are still not clear. The walls are from 8 to 25 m high. The most striking tower is Marta with 36 routes. In Raj routes are mostly graded from 4 to 7 UIAA. The hardest routes in Raj are SPOLOČNÉ ÁNO 8+ in sector Mesačné veže and DLHÉ LAKTE 8+ in Hodkovské veže. Most of them are sport routes,but you can find in Raj some mixed and traditional routes too, where it it necessary to place your own protection. The most prolific creators of new routes where Milan Hutlák, Jozef Tindira, Peter Haľko and Peter Slivka. Completely rebolting of Dreveník did climbers under guidance of area ranger Peter Slivka in 2012 – 2019. Travertine area Červené previsy is one of the three climbing areas in Dreveník. Červené previsy is located above the village Žehra, but the best approach is from from the village of Hodkovce. There are 20 routes in Červené previsy up to 20 m high. The first line via significat crack in the left part of the wall names STARÁ ŠPÁRA 7-, was probably climbed in 1973 by Miloš Kubík. For next many years this area was abandoned and finally in 1987 Karol Nickler started to make hard lines in overhanging slabs. He is the author of the hardest route in Dreveník POĽUDŇAJŠÍ BLESK graded 10-, that was RP climbed for the first time in 1993 by Dušan Beránek. Prolific creator of the new lines was Peter Haľko. He did 7 new routes. The couple Ivan Kos and Peter Slivka in 2018 completely rebolted this area. Travertine area Peklo is one of the three climbing areas in Dreveník. The best approach is from Spišský Castle or from the village of Hodkovce. There are 91 routes in 7 sectors from 15 to 28 m high. All routes in Peklo are sport in grades from 8 to 9. The hardest lines are NAVIAŽTE SA, PROSÍM 9, BONJOUR FRANCE 9, HAZARDNÁ HRA 9-, SVITANIE 9-, BALET HVIEZD 9-, PREŠOVSKÝ SMER 9-, INDIÁN 8+/9-, TEPŠA 8+ and SPOLOČNÁ LÁSKA 8+. After climbing, open project DRBOŠ, probably graded 10+, will be the hardest route in Dreveník. The most prolific and significant authors are Peter Haľko, Sveťo Poláček, Peter Slivka, Jožo Tindira, Ľubo Kuderjavý, Jano Lietava, Miroslav Štec or Alexander Palásthy.

„KALAMARKA“ – tolles Sportklettergebiet in der Slowakei, in unseren Breiten nahezu unbekannt; zudem ein sehr schön gemachter  Kletterführer – abseits aller modernen Auswüchse – meines Partners Vlado Linek. Exklusivvertrieb in Österreich! Kaufpflicht!  

 

Preis: 28 Euro
Erhältlich unter thomas.behm@aon.at

 

Kalamárka, with its amazing andesite rock, is one of the iconic climbing areas in Slovakia located above the town of Detva. It’s a popular destination for climbers from Slovakia, Hungary, Poland and Czechia. From spring to fall, and especially on weekends, the parking area by the gamekeeper’s lodge is packed with cars. But don’t worry, there’s room for everyone. This guidebook contains 352 pages with detailed maps and photos of the 5 crags: Horné Skaly, Dolné Skaly, Južné Skaly, Boriakove Skaly and Melichova Skala, with the total of 649 routes. In the last couple of years, a large number of safe routes was added at Horné Skaly and Dolné Skaly, all with new permanent stainless-steel bolts and anchors. However, there are still many older routes for trad climbers who like to be challenged. New crags like Južné Skaly, the magical Boriakove Skaly and finally also Melichova Skala were put on the map.

The most extensive one is Horné Skaly with 24 sectors and 320 trad, mix and sport routes. Most of them are of lower difficulty up to grade 5+, but considering the great number of routes, more accomplished climbers will also have a field day. The climbing is mostly pumpy and even grade 5 routes can get gnarly. The second largest crag is Dolné Skaly with 13 sectors and 211 routes. It has both easy and hard routes and it’s also home to the hardest line at Kalamárka – SELECKÝ graded 10-, which has only two free ascent from 2011 by Martin Medviď and from 2012 by Jozef Nosáľ.  The other crags are much smaller. Južné Skaly has 4 sectors and 52 routes of lower to medium difficulty and up to 14 meters high.

If you don’t like crowds, head to Boriakove Skaly. Many get discouraged by the 25-minute walk, but the peace, coupled with great climbing, is well worth it. Its 4 sectors offer 46 routes of medium to high difficulty that are up to 25 meters high. The smallest, and also the latest crag made accessible to climbers, is Melichova Skala with a rich history and 4 sectors with 20 routes.

Be careful and have fun on the rocks.

Vlado